Puglia still feels like a little bit of Italy untouched. Despite more hotels and restaurants opening up in the area, it still feels largely bohemian and much quieter than its neighbouring parts of the country. Olive trees over a thousand years old stand strong and unwavering as they line dusty and unfinished roads, bright pink bougainvillea tumbles over the top of ancient stone walls, and locals value the food from their own land, harvesting it into olive oils, primitivo wines and vegetable orecchiette pasta dishes.
In order to base ourselves in this little part of Italy as we spent days driving around the ancient towns of Ostuni, Monopoli, Lecce and Polignano a Mare, we chose to stay at Masseria Montenapoleone – named one of Vogue Paris’ favourite hotels in Puglia and on good recommendation from a friend who’s been visiting the area for years, we loved it and so I wanted to share some of this property with you…
A masseria is essentially Italy’s farmhouse; in Provence it’s a Mas, such as our wedding venue, and in Mexico it would be a hacienda. The properties largely focus around a central courtyard and typically date back to 16 Century, where the authentic bedrooms on site here once served as shepherd’s quarters or storerooms for harvests.
The neutral palette of the hotel all adds to an utterly charming and serene feel to the meandering property and on arrival you can’t help but feel instantly relaxed. My favourite time of day here was at breakfast, where they set up farmhouse-style tables teaming with every type of food you can imagine you’d want to start your day with; food here is served with love and the staff are proud to showcase the organic produce from the farmhouse, with their own fruits, vegetables, EVOO and wine being served.
It’s easy to see and feel that the hotel has been re-born with the utmost respect for nature and the sustainability of its surroundings; it honours its origins whilst also adding in modern, luxurious touches for its guests. The grounds are filled with lemon and almond trees, artichokes, grapevines, climbing roses, tumbling bougainvillea, so each time you walk around you spot something new. It would be easy not to leave the hotel for a few days to be honest, as with the large pool area, numerous dining options and restaurants on site, there is more than enough to do if you want to switch off and unwind. If you’re up for more of an activity-based trip, the masseria also has you covered – there are cooking classes, Vespa day trips, golf days, Yoga / Pilates classes to book on to… take your pick.
Is there anything better than enjoying a chilled glass of rose whilst reading a book by the pool…?
Packing up our Antler suitcases (kindly gifted by the brand), it’s safe to say we didn’t want to leave this tranquil slice of Puglian paradise.
If this has inspired you to book a short stay here, you can follow Masseria Montepoleone on Instagram or book via all usual booking methods. Happy holidays!
LMNH x
